Surfing

Big-wave surfer Kirk Passmore went missing earlier this week after getting swept up by a 20-foot wave and then struck by a second swell off Oahu's North Shore in Hawaii. His damaged board was later found down the beach.

Eliott C. McLaughlin of CNN passed along a statement from Passmore's family after authorities spent Thursday searching for the experienced surfer. It said in part that the 32-year-old business owner had been riding waves in Hawaii for nearly two decades.

"He started coming to Hawaii when he was 14 and was an experienced and expert surfer. He was not new to big wave surfing, having surfed most of the well-known big wave locations," said a statement from his family posted on the Brigham Young University-Hawaii website.

The statement, which is under the heading, "Kirk Passmore, February 11, 1981 to November 12, 2013," says the Utah-born and Carlsbad, California-reared 32-year-old enjoyed sports, including football, basketball and baseball, "but his love was in surfing."

It also says he is "survived" by his mother, father, stepmother and three siblings.

Keoki Kerr of Hawaii News Now reports a group of fellow surfers and rescue workers immediately began to search for Passmore after he wiped out and was struck by the second wave. Their efforts to find him were unsuccessful, however.

Jamie Sterling was also in the area and witnessed the incident. The surfer said it appeared he was injured during the initial fall and it caused him to lose his balance while trying to recover before the second wave struck.

He was seen swimming down with his feet up above the surface and we think he broke his ear drum because what happens when you break your ear drum is you have complete loss of balance and you have vertigo. So you have vertigo and he was swimming the opposite way and another wave came over him. So he had a two waves hold down. And after that we didn't see any more of him and we couldn't spot him.

At the time of the accident, the area where Passmore rode was under a high-surf warning due to waves that were reaching as high as 35 feet, according to the CNN report. Given the tough conditions, other surfers wondered why he didn't wear a floatation vest.

Passmore's business partner Steve Matthews told Hawaii News Now that Passmore had plenty of experience riding big waves in that area, as well as in Mexico, among other places.

He clearly felt comfortable enough in the high-surf conditions to ride the biggest waves, but even the best riders are not immune to accidents.    

ESPN's award-winning 30 for 30 series continues this fall with a handful of more stories, perhaps none more interesting than "Hawaiian: The Legend of Eddie Aikau," which will premiere on Tuesday night.

The documentary, directed by Sam George, will revisit the life and times of Eddie Aikau, a legendary big wave surfer in Hawaii more than three decades ago. He also served as the first lifeguard at Waimea Bay before being lost at sea in 1978 while on a journey to Tahiti with the Polynesian Voyaging Society.

Although Aikau only lived 31 years, it was long enough for him to become a hero in more ways than one.

Here, we'll get you set with everything you need to know for Tuesday's 30 for 30 documentary.

When: Tuesday, October 1 at 8 p.m. ET

Watch: ESPN

What to Expect

As director Sam George points out in ESPN.com's film summary, despite his legendary status among the surfing community, very little information is known about Aikau. There's a memorial surfing tournament held in his honor, the Quicksilver Big Wave Invitational, but images of Aikau shredding Hawaii's massive waves are difficult to come by.

But Aikau wasn't just a phenomenal big wave surfer. As mentioned before, he became the first lifeguard at Waimea Bay and spent a decade in the tower, rescuing more than 500 people. Even more impressive, not a single person died under Aikau's watch at the lifeguard tower. 

His undefeated record as a lifeguard made him a real-life hero to Hawaiians. 

George's film will feature several interviews with other surfing pioneers, including Eddie's brother, Clyde, who can be seen in the below clip from 30 for 30 on Twitter:

In addition to featuring captivating personal stories, there will be plenty of stunning rarely-seen footage from decades ago, showing how Aikau tamed some of the world's most dangerous waves. 

Regardless of whether you're a fan of surfing, "Hawaiian: The Legend of Eddie Aikau" will be worth checking out. George is a surfing authority and is sure to take viewers on a memorable journey through the life of the sport's most mysterious pioneer.

Follow Bleacher Report Featured Columnist Patrick Clarke on Twitter. 

Legends tend to fade as time passes by. The stories stop getting told and the next generation never learns about an interesting figure. Eddie Aikau, the once famous Hawaiian lifeguard, is getting another chance to shine thanks to the latest ESPN 30 for 30 documentary.

In Hawaiian: The Legend of Eddie Aikau, viewers will get a chance to take a closer look at a man who was renowned for riding big waves and helping save those who couldn't handle the ocean's fury. It's certainly a story that's been lost over time.

Aikau died at age 31 in 1978. He was lost at sea while on a journey with the Polynesian Voyaging Society. But the significant impact he made despite his tragic early death is a tale worth telling because it's a unique look at a niche lifestyle.

As a surfer, he took on some of the biggest waves in Hawaii. His days on Waimea Bay are what allowed his legend to grow. He relentlessly took on the adventures he would often find himself trying to save others from due to the immense dangers, even for experienced wave riders.

His ability to handle situations few others could led to the creation of the Quiksilver Big Wave Invitational in his memory. If the waves aren't big enough, with a minimum of 20-foot swells, the event doesn't happen.

It's exactly the type of tournament Aikau would have likely thrived in. When others were coming to shore, he was taking on a challenge.

That's how legends are born.

But his story didn't stop with just surfing. As the trailer alludes to, it was his apparent perfect record as a lifeguard, saving every swimmer or surfer that he was called on to save, which helped transform him into a Hawaiian hero.

It also helped his legend stretch beyond the shores of Hawaii. At least for awhile. Over time, his story has begun to lose steam as many do, which is why documentaries like the one featuring a larger-than-life figure is important.

Lifeguards are now commonplace and surfing remains a popular, albeit still niche, sport. But Aikau was somebody who transcended both titles to become a superstar. And he did it all in just 31 years, making it all the more amazing.

Luckily, the latest film in the 30 for 30 series should help bring the legend to a new generation.

2012 ASP World Tour runner-up Kelly Slater recorded a perfect start for the 2013 season, winning the Quiksilver Pro. The victory added his 52nd career title to what is already an unparalleled resume.

The gods at Kirra Beach, on Australia’s Gold Coast, treated the final four to treasured clean barreling waves (three-to-five foot). It was a dream platform for the surfers and they delivered by treating fans to a surfing spectacle.

In the final, Slater was pitted against his latest rival, world champion Joel Parkinson.

In the 40-minute session, Parko started right at the hooter, opening with an 8.67 barrel. But that was only the beginning of what was to follow.

Slater ignited the tube fest with an inconceivable barrel that was awarded an 8.73. All of this occurred in the first three minutes.

That pace eventually slowed down, and the Australian wrestled the lead back.

But with 24 minutes to go, Kelly caught the wave that would eventually win it. The 41-year-old was not content with just camping in the tube, though, he hacked a formidable forehand turn to finish. Talk of another perfect score was warranted, but the wave was given a 9.83.

Consequently, Slater’s 18.56 was the benchmark for the last half of the heat. With just under five minutes to go, Parkinson found the barrel he was waiting for. However, a weak second section proved fatal and the wave was scored just an 8.80.

Parko’s 17.47 was not enough, giving Slater the title at stop No. 1 of the year.

The American sent a message that he wants world title number 12, which is an intimating situation for the top 34.

Earlier in the day during semifinal No. 1, Joel opened the heat by charging down the line to claim a monstrous double barrel, reminding fans of his world champion status in the process. Yet again, inside the first minute the Australian had already secured a perfect 10 ride, which he complemented with an 8.17 shortly thereafter.

His opponent, Michel Bourez, was unable to find the winning waves to match Joel’s 18.17 total, falling short with a respectable 15.80. Nevertheless, the Tahitian still had a good result after being the most dominant surfer in the early rounds.

The stage was set in semifinal No. 2 as a packed beach cheered on their hometown favorites—the “Cooly Kids.” They were hoping for a Joel vs. Mick final, however, Kelly was not on board.

Slater made two errors early when he got caught too deep in long pumping barrels. Fanning was quick to bounce, combing the American early. But as the 11-time world champion does, inside the final 12 minutes he registered a 19.37 two-wave total.

Even though Fanning was able to lock in two excellent scores and an 18.60 total, Kelly’s perfect 10 with just five minutes to go proved to be too much.

The world’s top 17 women also competed on the Gold Coast this week in the Roxy Pro. Young Australian, Tyler Wright, avenged her disappointing 2012 season by bouncing Sally Fitzgibbons in the last moments of the final to steal the first event of the year.

Wright credited her offseason distractions as being the reason for her early success. Namely, purchasing a motorcycle.

Kirra and Snapper Rock surrendered world-class waves all event long, particularly in the finals. There were lead changes, stellar waves, perfect 10s, wipeouts, rivalries, hometown heroes—all epitomizing contest surfing.

It set the precedence for what could be another exciting season on the ASP World Tours.

View the Quiksilver Pro ’13 on demand here.

View the Roxy Pro ‘13 on demand here.

The debate about the stature of surfing in sports mainstream can safely be concluded as something that we will agree to disagree about.

Nevertheless, it is a sport.

It just so happens that Kelly Slater is the undisputed champion of the surfing world. His unprecedented success in the water warrants the respect to have a conversation on whether he is the greatest athlete of all time.

The Florida native has proven time and again that age is just a number, which typically does not resonate in sport.

At age 41, Slater has collected 11 ASP World Tour titles and 51 Elite World Tour victories. Oh, and he has been doing this for more than two decades. His closest rival in the sports history, Tom Curren, finished with just 33 tour victories.

Today, he is competing and beating guys who were infants when he won his first title. He is the youngest world champion at 20 years old and the oldest at 39 years old.

The time span of his dominance is unheard of. Occasionally guys show levels of courage and skill beyond their years and have careers that exceed are expectations.

But the names that come to mine, Brett Favre, Jamie Moyer and maybe Andre Agassi, all had long careers, but up-and-down ones.

The name Slater has been a constant at the top of surfing since Jordan won his first of six rings. 

I do not think that any pro athletes have left legacies on their particular sports to the extent that Kelly has.

I know, what about Tiger? What about the Michael’s? Well, the last time I checked, fame is not a criterion for the best athlete of all time.

In terms of dominance, career length, number of titles won, you name it, Kelly has ticked all of the boxes compared to those names.

Under Kelly’s reign, the sport is becoming global. Long gone are the days when surfing’s elite were all residents of either Australia or Hawaii.

Even though surfing lacks the mainstream allure, Slater is proven that it does not differ at all from the clutch putts, buzzer beats and crushing hits that you see commanding SportsCenter.

Finally, the most telling piece of evidence is the fact that we are having this conversation while Slater is still competing. With whispers of Kelly wanting to surf until he is 50, it looks as though his case for the greatest athlete of all time will only strengthen.   

Endless early morning alarms and countless hours in the ocean finally paid off for Joel Parkinson, 31, who captured his first world title in a storybook showdown on Hawaii’s North Shore today.

The 2012 Billabong Pipeline Masters was an event with a lot on the line. Not only was it the last event of the famed Vans Triple Crown of Surfing, but the World Title was yet to be decided.

Cue excitement, tension and elation. 

Parkinson, a Gold Coast native, was fighting to almost the last wave of the season to separate himself from 11-time world champion Kelly Slater. With minutes left in the first semifinal, Parkinson mounted a comeback to make the final and more importantly put the pressure on Slater.

In ever-shifting conditions, Kelly's loss in Round 4 edged the trophy closer to Parko, only for the American to steal it back with two massive heats in Round 5 and the quarterfinals. However, It was not meant to be for Slater, who ended an inconsistent season with fittingly an inconsistent day.

In the second semifinal, Slater failed to chase down an 8.14 ride to topple Josh Kerr. Kerr's upset gifted Parko his elusive dream and the title of 2012 ASP World Champ. 

“When Kerr got that one, I felt like I was going to physically throw up. I couldn’t control my emotions at that point," said Parkinson.

In what proved to truly be a day of firsts, Parkinson’s World Championship culminated with his first ever Pipeline Masters victory. With little time to celebrate, Parkinson paddled out in the final defeating Kerr with a 17.17 two wave total.

Promptly ending concern of winning a world title without an actual WCT win.

Parkinson, elated in disbelief, said, “This is where I wanted to stand at the end of the year. This is what I’ve worked for my whole life. I can’t describe what this feels like. I’ve had runner-ups and ups-and-downs. I’ve been to hell and back and it makes this so much sweeter.”

His season could easily be defined in one word—consistent. A ninth-place finish at the Volcom Fiji Pro was incredibly his worst outing. Three second and three third-place results were the crucial results that propelled him into first place in the title race heading to the iconic North Shore break. 

Slater took a completely different route to world title contention. His season suffered from injury and uncharacteristic exits.

But surf fans alike have been spoilt by the longevity of Slater’s career.

As retirement rumors swirl, hope lingers that this will not be his farewell tour and that he will continue to paddle out into the sunset.  

The entire Billabong Pipeline Masters on-demand can be found here.

The Mavericks Invitational 2012 is the latest installment in the iconic big wave competition that features either the most courageous or the craziest surfers on the planet.

The contest invites 24 big wave surfers who showcase their death-defying talent on waves that can exceed 60 feet. The event spans across the entire winter from November 9–March 31.

The opening ceremony on Friday in northern California marked the official start of the event. The festivities kicked off with the competitors being joined by admiring surfers and fans for a paddle out in what truly was the calm before the storm.

The famed Mavericks break can be found two miles off shore of Pillar Point Harbor in Half Moon Bay, CA.

A strong winter storm in the northern Pacific Ocean is the crucial piece to the equation. The subsequent swell produces waves that top out as high as 80 feet and routinely reach 25 feet.

However, despite a long contest window, the event only lasts 24 hours. All winter long the event is on hold until contest director Jeff Clark and his team spot the perfect swell coming in and make the call.

Entrants get just a days notice to converge from across the world at Pillar Point.

One of the noted surfers to accept an invitation is not a revered big wave surfer—rather 11 time World Champion, Kelly Slater. Even with the demands of the WCT, Slater could not turn down the thrill of another challenge in the water. 

Mavericks is defined by the respect and reputation that goes with conquering the towering wave. Its power is like no other, which unfortunately has resulted in the deaths of surfers Mark Foo, 1994, and Sian Milosky, 2011.

The 2011 contest suffered from poor swell and did not go ahead as contest worthy conditions never arose.

For a taste of the action to come, check out recently released Chasing Mavericks – a biopic about the life of Mavericks surfer Jay Moriarty starring Gerard Butler.

As the Association of Surfing Professionals (ASP) World Tour heads to the North Shore of Oahu to wrap up the 2012 season via the Billabong Pipeline Masters, 41-year-old 11-time World Champion Kelly Slater is on the precipice of winning another ASP World Title. 

Granted, he is currently second place in the standings behind Australian Joel Parkinson by 3,200 points. Joel tends to surf the Triple Crown extremely well, and he has won three in a row from 2008 to 2010. But consider that Parkinson has crumbled in this position before, having lost a lead at Pipeline when all he needed to do was win.

And of course, Kelly has played the spoiler before. He has had a knack for always winning those close battles throughout his career. Despite his denying it, Slater does play head games with other competitors, and he will do what it takes to win. Plus, he has won the Pipe Masters event six times in his career—the most won by any surfer. 

Four mathematical scenarios have been tallied by the ASP with regard to the World Title. Australian Mick Fanning, who is third in the rankings, is also still in contention. The scenarios are as follows:

Parkinson finishes 13th, 9th or 5th at the Billabong Pipe Masters

- Slater needs fifth place or better to take the 2012 ASP World Title.
- Fanning needs to win at Pipeline to take the 2012 ASP World Title.*
*Contingent upon Slater finishing 5th or Lower at Pipeline.

Parkinson finishes 3rd at the Billabong Pipe Masters

- Slater needs to place third or better to take the 2012 ASP World Title.
- Fanning needs to win at Pipeline to take the 2012 ASP World Title.*
*Contingent upon Slater finishing 5th or Lower at Pipeline.

Parkinson finishes 2nd at the Billabong Pipe Masters

- Slater needs to win at Pipeline to take the 2012 ASP World Title.
- Fanning cannot win the 2012 ASP World Title.

If Parkinson wins the Billabong Pipe Masters, he will take the 2012 ASP World Title

Now all we can do is wait. The stage is set for the annual flocking of the surf world to North Shore, Oahu. The Vans Triple Crown of Surfing kicks off on November 12 with the Reef Hawaiian Pro at Haleiwa. Following the Reef Hawaiian Pro is the Vans World Cup of Surfing at Sunset Beach starting November 25. The Triple Crown will then commence with the Billabong Pipe Masters in Memory of Andy Irons on December 8. 

Stay tuned to my feed for full coverage of the Vans Triple Crown of Surfing, as well as the ASP World Title race.