The Yearly Galveston Spring Flounder Run: How to Maximize Your Chances Now
The mid-March warming process of the Texas Coast is thawing out more than just air conditioners in Houston and on the Texas Coast. It is almost spring time, and the “Flounder Run” is upon us!
Flounders Seasonal Migration
A yearly phenomenon, April usually marks the first month of the flounder’s migration back to it’s native bays and estuaries. They will be returning, after several months of seeking deeper waters during the fall and winter seasons of 2010. From my perspective of fishing Galveston waters, the flounder are most abundant during October and November when they seem to be fleeing their backwater haunts to find the ocean. During the fall it is usually productive to fish the passes and channels that connect bay and ocean.
While the fall is arguably the most productive season for flounder fishing in Texas, the spring definitely makes a strong case for second place.
Those same fish who fled the bays for winter are headed back home thanks to instincts and hunger. They are larger now, and ravenously hungry. Notorious for being over-farmed early in their spawn by eager recreational fisherman and commercial anglers, the predictable species have seen a decrease in population when compared to previous decades in recent memory.
All is not lost, though, as regulations and voluntary conservation techniques have helped to drive the population up considerably in the 21st century.
To keep from turning this into a conservation conversation, I will just leave it at this simple observation:
When flounder populations are higher, the spring run tends to come a bit earlier than years when populations are diminished.
Watch for the Final Storm of Winter
2011 presents plenty of optimism for the upcoming run. As March is nearing it’s close, the weather reports indicate increased activity in the passes and bays by as early as the first week of April. There is a bit of a storm on the horizon, and that always bodes well for setting up great conditions directly afterward. I have personally made my very own plans to dust off the waders as soon as that front passes. When waters warm, the Flounder will seek safety, where they can more easily camouflaged and eat. Sometimes without restraint.
Where To Go?
Basically, once spring has established its self along the Texas Gulf Coast, you can fish anywhere in the bay system and catch something. The flounder in particular will rally along the shorelines, at the mouths of bayous, cuts, coves, and along drop offs in depth. When hunting flounder, think of how they eat. Trout and redfish are predatory fish, but flounder prefer ambush tactics.
They love to blend in sand, rendering themselves invisible while waiting for small fish to swim above them helplessly. Flounder are very explosive in short distances, but not in long pursuit, so don't work your bait too quickly.
Look for slow moving currents, originating from obscure backwaters along the southern coasts of the Bay systems (I am picturing the grass shoreline of West Bay, my childhood fishing grounds).
Grass and a mud/silt mix is the best, and a murky to brown or green water color will work to your advantage. High tides are very common in the spring, so don't forget all of the unusual structure that flooding creates. Flounder can (and will) travel into inches of water to eat.
What to Use?
I have yet to find a more reliable and easy-to-use method to flounder fishing than a simple jighead and soft plastic combo. I tend to see more action with the baits that sport a longer, more attractive tail like 4” sand eels or texas trout killers.
A quarter ounce jig is always sufficient, although I might switch to 1/8 oz if I am getting snagged too often, depending on the composition of the bottom. While flounder can theoretically get huge in Texas, and I have personally taken home a couple 30+ inch doormats, there is no reason to use any heavier than 12lb test on your spool.
I prefer to rig my Coriolis with braided line, so the issue of strength is moot. The beauty of braided line is that the diameter is much smaller, so you can afford to go much stronger without sacrificing the reel’s capacity.
It allows for more sensitivity and lower drag settings also, which I prefer when looking for Flounder (they have a much more subtle bite than other sport-fish in the bay).
Cons include the line “sawing” through some rods/reels, and higher prices. I have not had a problem with my Shimano, and a lot of rods are equipped to endure the friction and wont break down. Talk to your sales associate at whatever sporting goods store you choose before choosing a good line. They will take everything you want into concern while pointing you in the correct direction.
There are many alternatives, but braided line tied to a jig head is always where you should start. You can change the color and swimming action (shape) of your plastics, along with the weight of your jig head. Take into account the conditions, and find what is working for you on a daily basis. It is always a trial and error process.
How and When to Fish?
If you are a saltwater angler who has seen more than a couple of years on the water in Texas, you no doubt know that I am going to wax poetic about grabbing my waders and walking a couple of miles along the flats, while earning my stripes as a young student of Mother Nature…but the truth is, that wading is in fact the most logical approach for MOST bay fishing. Flounder, more pointedly, sit still, so naturally you need to present them with bait in their environment. Most boat motors will spook anything for a considerable amount of time, and even then you aren’t guaranteed on being able to explore all of the areas that flounder feed.
I prefer to leave the boat and motor (along with all of the other boats and motors) out of the picture while I slowly creep along the shoreline quietly.
I prefer wearing a pair of crocks to avoid sharp objects rogue oyster shells and rusted hurricane debris. Crocs are very light, and the thick foam is perfect for protecting your soft soles.
You still have to be careful, and they don't provide the protection or warmth that waders provide, but I prefer the ease of motion that comes with wearing them in the water. I like to use a belt with two rod holders and a small tackle storage area where I suggest putting a variety of different colored soft plastics.
Make sure to have a small knife, a stringer or do-nut net if you are eating your catch, and a net. Never go wade fishing without your net, or you will realize just how clumsy you are.
Walk slowly along the shoreline during a moving tide, throwing at mouths of cuts and bayous, patches of grass and other structures. Generally anywhere you see movement of water. Noticeable things like color changes, depth changes, slick surfaces, and bait movement are all places that should be explored.
Bounce your jig head SLOWLY along the bottom, hopping up and down along depth changes. Pause for a second or two periodically. You may think you are working your lure in too slowly, but I assure you, the fish do not agree.
Flounder will only rarely “chase” their prey. They prefer to lie in wait and strike. Sometimes they will simply put your lure in their mouth without clamping down.
When you feel a slight tug, let your jig head sit idle for a moment before budging it. If the tension is increasing, set your hook hard. No half-stepping here, as the jawbone of a flounder can be tough to penetrate. The bite is never identical, and more aggressive Flounder will hit hard, doing the work for you.
The key to flounder fishing is ‘low and slow.' Use the bottom and take your time. The flounder will appreciate your effort if they are in the area.
90 percent of the fish are in 10 percent of the water. If you have followed my advice, and are frustrated with no bite, make sure the tide is moving, and try another spot.